Eating at Arzak

May 28th, 2012 § Leave a Comment


As our cab pulled pulled up to an unassuming restaurant in an equally nondescript suburb of San Sebastian we weren’t sure what to expect from Arzak. We read the hype and saw the shows – Anthony Bourdain in “No Reservations” started the fascination for us, then there was Mario Batali”s “On the Road Again” in the kitchen with Juan Mari Arzak to watch and sample his signature Kokotxas or “hake throat” dish. I did eventually sample this delicacy – not here, somewhere else – and can say it is an acquired taste!

Inside, the interior couldn’t have been in more contrast to the exterior – all cool black and stainless steel with expertly designed lighting and acoustics. There is a no nonsense seriousness about the place and we adjusted our attitudes accordingly. Arzak must get a lot of patrons like us I suspect – foodie pilgrims from abroad – who have prepared themselves from what they hope is a revelatory experience.

We we’re quickly ushered to our table for the “early seating – 9:00 PM!” and handed the “tasting menu” – fine by us as we’re here to sample a wide away of food and are happy to let the house decide what that entails. Here are a few shots of what we ate…

We had a fabulous time, and yes the food was a revelation. I only wish the flavors lingered on the palate as long as my visa bill for the experience has lingered!

Our European Vacation

May 15th, 2012 § Leave a Comment


Smelling the basil in Apt, France
I bought some of the spray concentrates – great for salads


For people like us who work with food day in and day out you’d think we’d plan a vacation that was more of the ‘all inclusive’ beach variety, but nothing could be further from the truth. We plan our rare times away around food – shopping for it, making it and eating it all the while deepening our passions for it. Food is one of the rare human pleasures we take from the cradle to the grave that only seems to grow.

For this particular food adventure we decided on combining the Provence region of southern France with the San Sebastian region of northern Spain.

We flew into Marseille to meet our friend Helga on May 3rd and made our way via rental car to Apt, a medium sized market town of 12,000 souls. The town is somewhat off the tourist radar and this proved a stroke of good fortune as there is relaxed ease about the place and a pleasant absence of tourist prices. As a base, it was also perfect for launching ourselves to more of the high profile locales within the region.

Easily accessible were Avignon and Aix-en-Provence (not to be missed) as were the picturesque smaller villages of Au Oppede le Vieux and Menerbes – studded around the Petit Luberon mountain range.

We came here for the markets and there are a ton as each town or village has one. We found a number of similarities between them, but all seemed to have a slightly different focus.

Go to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue for instance if you’re looking for vintage – antique glass, cutlery and beautiful linens.


Aix-en-Provence had great produce paired with a rather 60′s flea market vibe. Charming and lovely.

St-Remy Market

Provence Postcard

May 11th, 2012 § Leave a Comment


Food in Provence

May 8th, 2012 § Leave a Comment


Soup to take the chill off Spring!

April 5th, 2012 § Leave a Comment


I know Spring is officially here but it still feels cool. The days are starting to warm slightly and there is evidence everywhere – cherry blossoms are on the trees, daffodils and tulips are popping up from the ground and I’ve seen guys wearing shorts walking down the street eating ice cream (!). None the less, it’s still not warm and I am impatient and want to eat something fresh but warming. I decided to make a very easy soup of green English peas, fresh spinach and mint. It’s warm and comforting enough to ward off the April chill but light enough to make me think of the sunny days right around the corner.

This is one of the easiest soups to make and very forgiving. Use more spinach and less peas if you like. Toss in a bit of zuchinni from the crisper. Substitute fresh basil instead of mint if you don’t like it. I used frozen sweet baby peas as they are always available and fresh spinach leaves to give it a vibrant green color. The soup is thickened only with a bit of potato so it can be virtually dairy free and the mint adds a note of freshness. If you want to make the soup richer, add a splash of heavy cream and a bit of butter at the end.

1 tbsp. olive oil
1 shallot or 1/2 small onion, finely diced
1 clove of garlic
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
2 cups of frozen baby peas, thawed
1 large handful of fresh spinach leaves, stems removed
4 cups of chicken or vegetable stock, homemade or organic broth
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
8 – 10 fresh mint leaves, stems removed, finely chopped

Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add the shallot or onion and garlic and saute until translucent. Measure 3 cups of stock and add to the onions and garlic. Reserve the remaining 1 cup of stock. Bring the stock to a simmer and add the diced potatoes and Djon. Once the potatoes are soft, add the peas to the soup and cook for another 7 – 8 minutes or until the peas are cooked but still bright green. Remove the soup from the heat and add the fresh spinach leaves and chopped mint. Stir until the spinach wilts in the hot soup.

Carfefully transfer half of the soup to a blender. Place the lid on the blender and cover with a tea towel. The soup will still be very hot and may leak a little while processing, and you don’t want to burn yourself. Keep your hand firmly on the top, and start at the lowest setting and increase to the highest setting. Process until smooth. Transfer the puree to a clean pot and repeat with the remaining soup. At this point you may want to add the remaining stock to thin it out and check for seasoning.
Serve with your favorite bread and butter and think Spring!

republicofcooking

The Vancouver Olive Oil Company

April 2nd, 2012 § Leave a Comment


I love cooking with olive oil and am always on the lookout for new varieties and flavours. Olive oils are touted as one of the healthiest oils around and the varieties from around the world are endless. This weekend I went to a specialty shop located at 2571 West Broadway called The Vancouver Olive Oil Company. It opened about 9 weeks ago and is Vancouver’s only shop that houses barrels of olive oil and balsamic vinegars for customers to purchase in a variety of sizes. The signature oils are from Italy, Spain, Greece, Argentina, Portugal and California and the aged red and white balsamic are from Modena, Italy.

The shop reminds me of one I visited in New York in Grand Central Terminal, called O&CO. I wanted a tin or bottle of each and every oil on the shelf! I tasted a variety of oils, both unadultered and infused, but the most unexpected taste was an Italian lemon olive oil paired with ice cold watermelon cubes. The combination sounds odd but it was amazing! The buttery citrus olive oil complimented the clean fresh taste of the watermelon and was a delicious surprise. Needless to say I purchased the lemon olive oil along with a few others, doling them out sparingly so they lasted as long as possible.
Now I don’t have to wait for a trip to New York – I can get my fix at home.

Owners Michael Anne and her mother Trisha have an amazing selection and you can help yourself to a tasting of all of the products sold in their shop. They provide tiny compostable spoons to individually taste each and every oil and vinegar. There are more than 2 dozen natural and flavoured olive oils. Each item has a description of the item, a flavour profile and suggestions for use.

The natural olive oils range from the mild and buttery to the very green and grassy with a sharp bite at the end. The flavoured olive oils are very clean tasting and include unique flavours like Persian Lime, Cilantro and Roasted Onion, Whole Fruit Blood Orange and Tuscan Herb Blend. I wanted them all!

The aged balsamic vinegars are even more surprising with combinations like Dark Chocolate, White Peach, Dark Espresso and Black Cherry and each flavour really comes through the tang of the vinegar. According to Michael Anne, bartenders are starting to find ways to use the balsamics in their custom cocktail in place of the usual tartness that comes from lemons or limes. Get ready for the next wave of unique cocktails on Vancouver lounge menus!

After tasting my way through almost every drum in the store, I settled on the Persian Lime and Garlic Olive Oil and Honey Ginger and Tangerine Balsamic Vinegars for my home pantry. Stay tuned for a post on using the oils and vinegars in cooking.

Michael Anne and Trisha are very welcoming and generous with their information about their product and ideas on how to use them. The store is cozy and intimate and before you know it, customers start chatting and sharing recipes. People just want to hang out there. Head out to the store and you’ll see what I mean.

The Cleanse

April 2nd, 2012 § Leave a Comment


For a food worshiper like myself, nothing fills my heart with dread more than the thought of being deprived. Unfortunately the food I love (duck fat anyone?) usually comes at a price measured beyond mere shekels.

Rather than change my diet completely, and by extension, reinvent my wardrobe yearly, I hit upon the idea of cleansing two or three times a year.

Currently, I’m into day seven of the twelve day ‘Wild Rose Detox’ cleanse, and unlike other cleanses I’ve been on, this one allows you to eat fairly broadly- just no junk food! – Oh, and no dairy, sugar, wheat or fermented food as well.

But I can live with that.

My eating habits, generally speaking, are in line with the recommended diet, but I’ll confess, I’m having a teensy bit of trouble with the no wine part!

There are compensations however, you can still enjoy things like rice noodles, lentils, potatoes, eggs, meat and of course almond butter, but get the low fat kind as almond butter packs a caloric punch equal to most natural peanut butters.

Here’s what we ate on Sunday night…

Lamb souvlaki patties with smoked paprika, baba ganoush, sprouted grain salad with cucumber & parsley, and a little steamed broccolini.

The only thing missing from the picture is that glass of wine!

Sustainable Seafood Sandwiches

March 9th, 2012 § Leave a Comment


Image

We’ve been on a mission of late to revamp our sandwich menu to better serve our commitment to sustainable seafood. Thankfully, locally sourced salmon is plentiful and forms the basis for our new sandwich (pictured above). The goal we set for ourselves was to create a sandwich that was 100% locally sourced.

We managed to do it by limiting our ingredients to a select few!

We started by slow-roasting whole sides of wild salmon with a house made mustard consisting of cognac and roasted garlic. The mustard seals in flavour by forming a delicate crust and prevents the fish from drying out. Next we came up with a “healthier” cole slaw of red cabbage and fennel that’s uses Greek yogurt instead of the standard mayonnaise. A hint of licorice from toasted anise seeds puts this “slaw” over the edge.

Finally, our bun of choice was a potato dill roll that we make in-house. The inclusion of mashed potatoes in the dough makes for a roll that is pillowy soft and delicious.

If you’d like to make a version of this sandwich yourself start by sourcing your fish from a reputable local fishmonger. There are lots of suppliers of sustainable seafood suppliers in Vancouver that meet the criteria laid out by Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program. Our favourites are Deluxe Seafood and Steve at Organic Ocean.

Tips and Tricks to Throwing a Great New Years Eve Party at Home

December 28th, 2011 § Leave a Comment


On Tuesday, I did an interview for CKNW’s “The Bill Good Show.” The topic of conversation was “Ring in the New Year…The Right Way”- the tips and tricks to throwing a great New Years Eve Party at Home. The interview is a bit long – you can listen here,

Here are the essential tips on throwing a fabulous New Year’s Eve Party at home.

Start with the givens.
The things that are fixed – and work backwards from there. The size of your space for instance will dictate your guest count and ultimately the style of party. If you’re in a tiny place think about removing and temporarily storing items in order to add more seating. Consider your budget as well – how much do you want to spend on this shindig?

Wrap the party around a theme.
Decide on a general theme for your party – your theme will give your party cohesion and make the rest of the decision-making process that much easier. A 50’s style “Rat Pack” theme will suggest appropriate cocktails, food and lighting choices to match. Another theme might be a favorite place you’ve traveled to. Perhaps you were in Sicily with some friends and want to re-create the magic. Think Negronis, Pizza Margherita and Cannoli for dessert.

Who is Coming?
Are you inviting a group of intimate friends? Or Is it an open invitation to family, co-workers and neighbors to drop-in? Whatever your choice, it’s a good idea to get an accurate guest count. This is always a tough one as we humans are moody creatures saying “yes” and then feeling “no” on party day. If you’ve over bought booze, it’ll keep or can be returned (heaven forbid!), but you may not want to eat cheese dip into the new year. People often get more than one offer for New Year’s Eve parties, and will try to make it to a few, so always allow for a few no-shows or for those that may just drop in for an hour or so.

How much help do you need?

If unasked, most guests will bring a bottle of wine, but think about being specific. Use your theme as a guide to request more specific items. If your guest count is in the “teens” consider renting plates and glassware – it’s a relative bargain for the ease of clean-up!

Serve the good stuff first.
If you’ve splurged on great champagne, serve it when guests arrive – they won’ taste it at midnight. For the midnight bubbly, serve a Prosecco, Cava or other favorite sparkling wine. Just have it chilled and ready to go and the glasses ready for the midnight cheer!

The next day.
You may even choose to forgo the traditional New Year’s Eve Party in favor of a celebration centered around a fabulous brunch on New Year’s Day. Lets face it, we’re all getting older, and making it till 12:00 PM can be a push. In any event, plan food for Jan. 1st. that can just be popped into the oven. I like a simple vegetable strata- easy and delicious. You’ll also have something to offer guests returning for vehicles if it was “that” kind of evening the night before!

So, whether your party is subdued or raucous, whether you’re dancing to Frank and Dino or just “watching the ball drop” with a clutch of close friends, here’s wishing you a wonderful New Year’s Eve celebration with lots of laughter and a joyous 2012!

The Joys of Falafel

November 26th, 2011 § Leave a Comment


Years ago, I was what could best be described as a bad vegetarian. While I swore off meat, I didn’t exactly embrace vegetarianism. My diet was terrible- a mishmash of easy to eat convenience foods sorely lacking in essential nutrients that eventually drove me back to eating meat.

I think now, I was probably starving as I can’t remember eating anything that felt like a complete meal. I was however thin!

Many years later we went to a place called Cafe Gratitude, a vegan restaurant in Berkley Calif, and the food was an eye opener for me. I can say, without hesitation, that I would be vegan if I could eat there everyday.

We made a vegan sandwich recently that put me in mind of Cafe Gratitude. The word I’d use to describe it is robust. A perfect meal- high in protein and fiber, low in calories with lots of different textures and surprises. While falafel is not uncommon, a good one can sometimes be a challenge to find.

Key to it all is making your chickpea fritters from scratch. Don’t buy the pre-made powdered stuff in a box- it’s nasty. Instead simply soak a few cups of chickpeas in water for a day with a touch of baking soda to soften, then simply pulse then up with fresh parsley, cilantro, toasted cumin seed, coriander, a little chili flake, baking powder, garlic and salt and pepper.

After that, it’s only a matter of rolling and frying them in oil- we used canola oil for a lighter taste but any vegetable oil is fine. They’ll keep fairly well in the fridge for a week, so fry up a bunch and use them for snacks instead of Miss Vickies.

The other components for our sandwich were house-made Baba ghanoush (probably the best flavour enhancer on the planet), lemony tabbouleh and a sweet and tangy red cabbage slaw to finish. Delish!

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